In Geneva, Thai food can be modern

It’s a small street near the Place du Molard, in the heart of Geneva. The name is simple: “Thai”. Under it, an explanation: “Contemporary Cuisine”. It’s true that Thai restaurants always propose the same style and the same dishes, sometimes for decades. We decided to try the “Contemporary Thaï” and we were not disappointed.

The place: first of all, there are two levels and three rooms in a very narrow building, with nice designer furniture and great attention to the lighting. It’s cosy, trendy and a bit noisy too. The waiters are young and efficient.

And what’s in the plate, Sir? Nice food, good cooking, an amusing mix of European products and Thai spices. The tacos are full of chicken, prawn and soybean sprouts. The duck is roasted with pineapples and honey. The seabass comes from Corsica to be steamed with limes. The lobster arrives with a litchi salad, chili and lemongrass jam. You’ll find curries, but with soft shell crabs or aubergine, for example.

And what about the prices? At midday, the entire 37 Swiss franc business lunch comes on a big plate with five compartments. The top menu is 85 francs. Starters cost about 20 francs and main course from 22 to 42 francs. Don’t forget you’re in the center of Geneva…

The wine list explores bottles from across the oceans, without forgetting some local ones. I was furious to see that the only mineral water comes from… Norway. Fashion is sometime stupid.

Le Thaï, 3, rue Neuve-du-Molard, 1204 Genève. Phone 022 310 12 54. www.thai-geneve.com. Closed on Sunday.