One day in Cully

When I grow up, I want to live in Cully. Cully is a big village (or a small town) between Lausanne and Vevey. Everybody knows everybody and you have to drink a glass of wine with the other residents at least once a week. And, finally, Cully has a lot of very good restaurants. How could I live anywhere else?

The other night, we went to the Auberge du Raisin. The huge house, in the center of the town, near the lake, exudes luxury and comfort. For many decades, the hotel and the restaurant were proud members of Relais & Châteaux, and their rates put the place in a very high category. Last year, the chef, Adolf Blockbergen, died. His deputy, Peter Hasler, took over the baton. The Swiss-German, aged 47, decided to give the place a more popular touch by lowering the prices. But he kept his talent and the taste for good produce.

First of all, the service is very professional, but with that relaxed touch that makes you feel comfortable. The decor is classic, with a huge fireplace in the middle of the room, where prime cuts of beef or lamb are roasted. But the man is also a fish lover, marrying loup de mer (sea bass) with vegetables, cabillaud (cod) and red onions, or lobster with a black risotto. It’s light, tasty and you feel like you are on Mediterranean coast.

Even if the chef cut his rates, we’re still in a fine restaurant: starters are from 16 to 32 Swiss francs, fish and meat from 45 to 62 francs, and the menus come in at 120 and 185 francs.

Auberge du Raison, pl. de l’Hôtel-de-Ville 1, 1096 Cully, +41 (0) 21 799 21 31. Closed on Sunday and Monday.