Interview with Swiss wine writer Chandra Kurt: Part II

 

This is Part II of my interview with Swiss wine writer Chandra Kurt. The visual features the cover of the 12^th edition of Weinseller 09/10 - independent reviews by Kurt of some 500 wines stocked by Switzerland’s biggest wine sellers (Coop, Denner, Globus, Manor, Spar and Volg) in terms of the quality they represent for money. There is an excerpt from Weinseller at the end of this interview. For an introduction of Kurt, websites relevant to her and the first part of the interview, see Part I of this post.

Interview continued from Part I

GM-V:  What would you advise an expat who does not speak the Swiss languages to do if he or she wants to really learn about Swiss wines countrywide, in all six of its wine regions?

CK: I would recommend two books to start. First Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book. There is also a bigger version of it called The Wine Companion by Hugh Johnson. Very interesting (I have to say ‘was’ unfortunately) is the Wine Report by Tom Stevenson; the 2009 edition is the last published, but you will find a lot of valid information about Swiss wine. If you want a more general book you can get the one published by Vinea (www.swiss-wine-guide.ch). I must admit that in the world wine press Switzerland is often underrated or not yet discovered - like Austria, for example.

GM-V:  Do you think there are certain good ‘beginner’s wines’ to try first, particularly for people used to heavy, often wooded New World wines? I mean, how do you get somebody to appreciate Chasselas for example?

CK: When you start to taste Swiss wine I would suggest that you don’t compare international grapes such as Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. Yes, we also have very good ones like the Chardonnay from Gantenbein [Fläsch, GR] or the Sauvignon Blanc from Domaine des Faunes [Dardagny, GE]. But it’s best to start with specialties like Petite Arvine, Amigne, or Heida from the Valais. Switzerland has a lot of grapes that you don’t find in other countries and I believe that this will become more important in the future. There is already so much wine all over and often the same grapes are cultivated. Being different and unique could be a key for future wine success.

To learn to love the rather unaromatic Chasselas grape you must [go to a waterfront eatery] on Lake Geneva, eat some local fish or cheese and enjoy the beauty of the scenery. If you drink Chasselas at that moment you will never forget its actual beauty. Still - Chasselas will never be as popular as Chardonnay, but then again its aromatic neutrality is a good match for Swiss neutrality!

GM-V: Aside from the wines in your own collection, which I’m assuming you’re partial to and maybe you could say a few words about, what are some of your top Swiss favorites?

CK: The idea behind the ‘Collection Chandra Kurt’ is to show the beauty of old Swiss grape varieties from the Valais. So far we have released three wines - a Humagne Blanche, a Humagne Rouge and a Heida. The wines are produced by ‘Swiss Wine Woman of the Year 2008′ Madeleine Gay. She is head winemaker at the Valais Provins winery and she has always had a passion for old grape varieties. We’ve known each other for over 20 years and share a similar taste in wine. At the moment I am working on a book about old grape varieties:  Von Humagne Rouge bis Heida - die Mythologie alter Walliser Traubensorten [From Humagne Rouge to Heida - The Mythology of Old Valais Grape Varieties].

Some of my most favorite Swiss wines are:

• Amigne de Vétroz from André Fontannaz (www.fontannaz.ch)
• Syrah Cayas from Jean-René Germanier (www.jrgermanier.ch)
• Merlot from Tenimenti del Ör (www.agriloro.ch)
• Oeil de Perdrix from Château d’Auvernier (www.chateau-auvernier.ch)
• Completer Volg Weinkellereien (www.volgweine.ch)
• Sauvignon Blanc, Les Curiades, Dupraz et Fils (www.curiades.ch)
• Pinot Noir Davaz (www.davaz-wein.ch)

GM-V: Is there anything you’d like to add to help expats get the most out of the wine scene in this country? Are there wine bars or restaurants particularly worth a visit from a wine point of view? You can mention anywhere in the country since readers live in all parts of Switzerland.

CK: A good place to go to learn about the wine culture of the Valais is the Château de Villa (www.chateaudevilla.ch) in Sierre. You can try all kinds of wines by the glass, and it’s also a historic building. Also very exciting is the Hotel Fletschhorn in Saas Fee - they have one of the greatest selections of Swiss wines (www.fletschhorn.ch). In Zurich, there are several places that focus on Swiss products, like Terroir (www.terroir.ch). In Bern I usually go to the Lötschberg Bar (www.loetschberg-aoc.ch). It’s a place in the center of town where you get only Swiss wines and Swiss products. It’s not chic but it’s very charming. Another wonderful place is the Waldhaus in Sils Maria (www.waldhaus-sils.ch). It’s a historic place with a fantastic wine list and when you are staying there [in the hotel] you feel as if you’re in a Thomas Mann novel.

GM-V: Thank you, Chandra, for the great comments and tips.

CK: I don’t know if you want to mention this, but readers can always write me e-mails if they have questions about Swiss wine: chandra[at]chandrakurt.com.

Book excerpt: Top international selections in the 25 francs and under category featured in the 2009/2010 edition of Weinseller:

- Antu 2006, Cabernet Sauvignon & Carmenère, Ninguén, CHF 16.95 (Manor)
- Basa 2007, Rueda, CHF 16.50 (Globus)
- Château La Bouscade 2006, Old Vine Carignan, CHF 17.95 (Manor)
- Dogliani 2006, Papa Celso, Marziano Abbona, CHF 24.80 (Globus)
- Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 2007, Domaines des Bernardins, CHF 21.50 (Spar)
- Museum Real 2003, Reserva, Cigales DO, CHF 17.95 (Manor)
- Oomoo Shiraz 2007, Hardys, Mc Laren Vail, CHF 16.95 (Denner)
- Pinot Noir 2007, Saint-Léonard AOC, Réserve, Domaines des Virets, CHF 19.80 (Coop)
- Rioja DOCa Campillo 2001, Reserva Selecta, CHF 24.90 (Manor)
- Soave Monte Alto 2006, Ca’Rugate, CHF 18.90 (Spar)
- TBA Trockenbeerenauslese 2007, Auslese, Höpler, CHF 24.- (Coop)

Weinseller is in German, but the gist is easy to grasp. CHF 32. Order at www.werdverlag.ch.