Interview with Nick Malgieri

I first got to know Nick Malgieri when he was the spokesperson for Switzerland Tourism’s Gastronomy and Wine program in the early 2000s, traveling regularly to Switzerland from New York to report on fests, regional specialties, recipes, and wonderful restaurants in this country. His reports were published on the Swiss tourism board’s English-language website, and I read them assiduously not only because they were wonderfully informative but because they were the only coverage of the type. Some of the articles can still be accessed on SWISS International Airlines’ site (address below).

Malgieri, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, initially got to know and love Switzerland when he apprenticed here.

He went on to specialize in pastry, and has built an extraordinary career. He has been voted one of the best pastry chefs in the US; is a teacher, consultant, TV personality, and prolific author of prize-winning books (the latest is The Modern Baker, 2008); and his articles and recipes appear regularly in such prestigious publications as The New York Times, Washington Post, Gourmet and Food and Wine.

Nor has Malgieri’s love of Switzerland faded, in fact when he answered my questions he was just back in New York after a trip to Zurich and Basel where he attended Fasnacht (carnival).

How was the Swiss food and wine pulse as you read it on this trip?

Better than ever.  I sampled traditional Fasnacht dishes at several places in Basel, then went on to Zurich and enjoyed a magnificent lunch at Mesa, a very contemporary restaurant. Both experiences embody what I love most about Swiss food - a great love of tradition coupled with excellent modern offerings.

If you had to some up Swiss food in a few words, what are the characteristics you would highlight?

I always joke that Swiss food is the original fusion food, but it’s not really a joke. Swiss chefs were making dishes like exotic curries and Nasi Goreng their own as early as the 1970s and the Swiss have always had a taste for the exotic right alongside their traditional fare. Also Switzerland’s borders with France, Italy, Germany, and Austria have influenced its cooking and sweets in innumerable ways, but not just as imitations of the food in those countries, but with a uniquely Swiss interpretation of them.

What are some of your favorite Swiss dishes?

Roesti is one of the crowning achievements of world cuisine and a well prepared one is a dish to remember. I never go to Geneva without stopping for an entrecote Café de Paris, or to Bern without having Berner Platte. In Zurich I always indulge in Züri Geschnetzeltes at least once, and everywhere I’m sampling chocolates and pastries that never disappoint.

Wines?

I always try local wines whenever I travel and am always impressed at the fine quality maintained by Swiss winemakers. Wines from the Valais head my list, but lesser known vintages can be equally good. One of my top favorites is Guido Brivio’s white Merlot in Ticino.

Favorite restaurants around the country?

Too numerous to mention, but here are a few:

♦ Harmonie and Confiserie Schiesser in Basel;

♦ Galliker and Confiserie Heini in Lucerne;

♦ Grotto da Pierino and Pasticceria al Porto in and around Lugano;

♦ The Kronenhalle and Konditorei Vollenweider in Zurich;

♦ Café du Soleil and Confiserie Rohr in Geneva;

♦ Joehris Talvo and Confiserie Hanselmann in St. Moritz…

Other top foodie experiences - markets, fests, stores?

I never miss the Wednesday market in Zurich’s main train station when I’m there. The outdoor markets in Lugano, Lucerne, Fribourg, and Vevey are also particular favorites. Every little town has a wonderful butcher shop that also does smoked and other prepared meats, a cheese and dairy store, a bread bakery and pastry shop. These are always worth investigating for local specialties no matter where you are in Switzerland.

Aside from reading your archived articles on the subject, what other resources do you recommend for people who wish to learn about Swiss food and wine, including expats who want to do some hands-on shopping and cooking here?

Almost every Swiss town has a web presence with recommendations for dining and shopping - it’s a great place to start. If you’re traveling around, a quick stop at the local tourist office will leave you with excellent personal recommendations for restaurants and food and wine shopping.

To read some of Nick Malgieri’s coverage of Swiss food (including recipes) and wine go to:

http://www.swiss.com/COUNTRIES/US/LOCAL_CONTENT/FEATURES/Pages/nickmalgieriarticle_us.aspx

His recipe for Swiss Easter Rice Tart is coming up in my next blog.

More at www.nickmalgieri.com

Photo courtesy of interviewee.